As the leaves change and the temperature drops, it's a telltale sign that winter is on its way. For many water sports enthusiasts, this means it's time to say goodbye to those exhilarating rides on your jet ski and boat until the warmer months return. However, before you tuck your watercraft away for the season, it's essential to ensure that they are properly winterized. Part of this process should include checking and servicing your impeller, a crucial component that often goes overlooked. In this article, we'll discuss the importance of winterizing your jet ski and boat, the signs that your impeller might need servicing, and why the off-season is the perfect time to get it done.
Winterizing Your Jet Ski and Boat
Properly winterizing your jet ski and boat is a vital step in preserving the longevity and performance of your watercraft. Cold temperatures, ice, and snow can wreak havoc on various components, and neglecting this process can lead to costly repairs in the spring. Here's a checklist of essential steps to ensure your watercraft are ready for winter:
Checking Your Impeller
One crucial component of your jet ski and boat that's often overlooked during winterization is the impeller. The impeller is the heart of your watercraft's propulsion system, responsible for drawing in water and expelling it with force to move your vessel forward. Over time, impellers can become damaged, leading to a loss of performance and efficiency. It's essential to check your impeller for signs of wear and tear before storing your watercraft for the winter. Here's how to do it:
Why Winter is the Perfect Time for Impeller Servicing
Winter is an ideal time to service your impeller for several reasons:
As the winter months approach, don't forget the importance of properly winterizing your jet ski and boat. Alongside the standard winterization steps, be sure to inspect your impeller for signs of wear and damage. The off-season is the perfect time to have your impeller serviced, ensuring your watercraft is in peak condition when the warm weather returns. By taking these steps, you'll not only protect your investment but also ensure that your jet ski and boat provide you with countless hours of water-bound enjoyment for years to come.
How to Build a Jet Ski Impeller
If you're a fan of personal watercraft and want to improve their performance, building your own jet ski impeller could be a great option. Impellers are a key component in the propulsion system of jet skis and are responsible for generating thrust by drawing water into the craft's impeller housing and then expelling it through a nozzle at high speeds.
Here's a step-by-step guide on how to build a jet ski impeller:
Step 1: Design the Impeller
The first step in building a jet ski impeller is to design it. You can use 3D modeling software to create a detailed design, or you can draw the impeller by hand on paper. The design should include the shape and size of the blades, the diameter of the impeller, and the pitch angle of the blades.
Step 2: Build the Casting Jig
Once you have the design, the next step is to build a casting jig. The casting jig is used to make the mold for the impeller. You can build a casting jig out of wood or metal, depending on your preference. The jig should be the exact shape of the impeller and should have a hollow core to allow the molten metal to fill the mold.
Step 3: Cast the Impeller
After the casting jig is completed, you can cast the impeller. You'll need to melt the metal, typically aluminum, in a furnace until it becomes liquid. Then, pour the molten metal into the casting jig and allow it to cool and harden. Once the metal has hardened, you can remove the impeller from the jig.
Step 4: Clean and Finish the Impeller
After the impeller has been removed from the casting jig, it will have rough edges and may require additional finishing. You can use a grinding wheel or sandpaper to smooth out the edges and give the impeller the desired finish.
Machining an impeller out of aluminum or steel is another option for building a custom impeller. Machining an impeller can offer more precise control over the design and manufacturing process, allowing for greater customization and tighter tolerances. However, machining an impeller requires specialized equipment and expertise, and may be more expensive than casting an impeller.
One advantage of machining an impeller is that it allows for the use of stronger materials than those typically used in cast aluminum impellers, such as stainless steel or titanium. These materials can offer improved durability and resistance to wear, making them ideal for high-performance jet ski applications.
However, machining an impeller requires a solid block of material, which can be expensive and wasteful compared to the casting process. Machining also requires specialized equipment, such as a CNC machine or lathe, and may require more time and expertise to produce a finished product.
Step 5: Install the Impeller
Once the impeller has been cleaned and finished, it's ready to be installed in the jet ski. The impeller should be placed in the impeller housing and secured in place with bolts or screws.
In conclusion, building your own jet ski impeller can be a rewarding and cost-effective way to improve your craft's performance. By following these steps, you can create an impeller that's customized to your needs and preferences. Remember, it's important to take your time with each step to ensure the impeller is built correctly and works safely.
A custom impeller typically starts at $10k to build from scratch depending on size.
Are you the proud owner of a Sea Doo model watercraft or boat with a damaged impeller? Or perhaps you have upgraded your watercraft and now have a used impeller lying around? Look no further! At Impellers.com, we are interested in buying your used or damaged impellers for Sea Doo 4 stroke models.
Why sell your impeller to us? First and foremost, we are experts in impeller repair and replacement. We have years of experience in the industry and can recognize the value of a used or damaged impeller. By selling your impeller to us, you can be sure that you are getting a fair price for your item.
Additionally, selling your impeller to us is an eco-friendly option. Rather than throwing away your damaged or unused impeller, you can help reduce waste by selling it to us. We will either repair the impeller or use its parts to repair other impellers, ensuring that it doesn't end up in a landfill.
At Impellers.com, we are interested in buying impellers for Sea Doo 4 stroke models. Whether your impeller is damaged or used, we want to hear from you. Selling your impeller to us is a hassle-free process. Simply contact us and provide us with some basic information about your impeller, including its condition, model, and any other relevant details. We will get back to you with a quote and arrange for payment and pick-up of your impeller.
Don't let your used or damaged impeller go to waste. Sell it to Impellers.com today and help keep our waterways clean and healthy while earning some extra cash.
The personal watercraft (PWC) industry has been dominated by two primary groups for quite some time: stand-up and sit-down riders. While there is no clear winner between the two, each side has its own reasons for why they prefer their particular style. To fully understand the issue, we need to look back at the history of the PWC.
Initially, personal watercraft meant stand-up Jet Skis, which were produced by Kawasaki. However, the industry changed when Yamaha introduced the Wave Jammer and Wave Runner, which started the sit-down revolution. While Yamaha also produced a stand-up model, other companies entering the market ignored the ski segment and concentrated solely on runabouts.
The stand-up enthusiasts believe that skis are the only true form of the sport and that runabouts are a passing fad. They see Yamaha stand-ups as unproven newcomers and insist on the tried-and-true Kawasakis. Stand-up riders often look down on runabout riders, citing the increased difficulty of ski riding as a "rite of passage" into the inner world of personal watercraft.
On the other hand, runabout riders' feelings are not as strong. They are often new to the sport of PWC and so enamored with it that they don't pay much attention to the shrinking ski segment. Runabout riders can legally and comfortably take a friend or two on their craft, pull a waterskier if the mood strikes, and ride for longer periods of time without refueling or stopping to rest tired legs.
While there is no easy answer as to which form of personal watercraft is better, personal opinion reigns supreme. Regardless of which side you are on, it's important to remember that both forms of personal watercraft are a legitimate form of recreation. Ultimately, it's up to the individual rider to decide which form they prefer.
Application #Used Grade Head Thread Size Pitch Thread Length mm Shaft Length mm Socket Size Torque Specs McMastercarr#
Parts for Yamaha 62t and 61x Motors
Motor Mounts to Hull 8 18-8 Hex M8 1.25 25 30 91287A154
Motor Mounts with Kenny Keepers to Hull 4 18-8 Hex M8 1.25 30 40 91287A305
Bed Plates to Motor Mounts 4 18-8 Hex
Bed Plates Port - - - - - - - - - -
Rear 1 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 11,18 91287A181
Middle 1 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 11,18 91287A181
Front 1 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 80 11,18 91287A379
Bed Plates Starboard - - - - - - - - - -
Rear 1 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 11,18 91287A378
Rear/Middle 1 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 35 35 11,18 91287A173
Front/Middle 1 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 11,18 91287A181
Front 1 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 11,18 91287A181
Case bolts (bottom) 8 18-8 Hex M8 1.25 25 85 12mm 11.18
Cylinder to Cases 2 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 55 14mm 16-29 91287A373
ADA Head Gridle Nuts 6 1.25 15-18-23
Cylinder to Cases 4 18-8 Hex M10 1.25 30 40 14mm 16-29 91287A374
Head to Cylinder 10 18-8 Hex M8 1.25 25 50 12mm 15-18 91287A309
Head to Cylinder 10 18-8 Allen Socket M8 1.25 28-34 50 6mm 15-18 91292A154
Exhaust Manifold 8 18-8 Hex M8 1.25 30 30 10mm 11-22 (Factory13) 91287A154
Exhaust Manifold 8 18-8 Allen Socket M8 1.25 30 30 6mm 11-22 (Factory13) 91292A149
Intake Manifold to Cases 8 18-8 Hex M6 1 25 25 10mm Tight 91287A138
Intake Manifold to Cases 3 18-8 Hex M6 1 20 35 10mm Tight 91287A141
R&D Dominator Intake Manifold to Carb STUD 4
R&D Dominator Intake Manifold to Carb NUT 4
Reed Cages to Manifold 4 18-8 Hex M5 0.8 15 15 8mm 91287A124
Reeds to Reed Cages 16
Stator to Cases 2
Flywheel key 1 none
Flywheel to Crank Bolt 1 70
Flywheel Cover to Cases 7 18-8 Hex M6 1 25 25 10mm Tight 91287A138
Flywheel Cover to Cases 7 18-8 Allen Socket M6 1 25 25 10mm Tight 91292A138
Flywheel Cover to Cases 7 18-8 Button Allen Socket M6 1 25 25 10mm Tight 92095A242
Starter to Cases 2 18-8 Hex M8 1.25 25 40 13mm Tight 91287A305
Coupler Cover to Cases 2 18-8 Hex M6 1 25 25 10mm Tight 91287A138
Motor Mounts to Hull 8 316 Hex M8 1.25 20 30 93635A326
Motor Mounts with Kenny Keepers to Hull 8 316 Hex M8 1.25 30 40 93635A336
Bed Plates to Motor Mounts 4 316 Hex
Bed Plates Port
Rear 1 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 93635A457
Middle 1 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 93635A457
Front 1 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 80 93635A462
Bed Plates Starboard
Rear 1 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 93635A457
Rear/Middle 1 316 Hex M10 1.25 35 35 93635A428
Front/Middle 1 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 93635A457
Front 1 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 70 93635A457
Case bolts (bottom) 8 316 Hex M8 1.25 25 85 12mm
Cylinder to Cases 2 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 55 14mm 93635A449
Cylinder to Cases 4 316 Hex M10 1.25 30 40 14mm 93635A438
Head to Cylinder 10 316 Hex M8 1.25 25 50 12mm 93635A340
Head to Cylinder 10 316 Allen Socket M8 1.25 28-34 50 6mm 92290A449
Exhaust Manifold 8 316 Hex M8 1.25 30 30 10mm 93635A326
Exhaust Manifold 8 316 Allen Socket M8 1.25 30 30 6mm 92290A434
Intake Manifold to Cases 8 316 Hex M6 1 25 25 10mm 93635A214
Intake Manifold to Cases 3 316 Hex M6 1 20 35 10mm 93635A222
R&D Dominator Intake Manifold to Carb STUD 4
R&D Dominator Intake Manifold to Carb NUT 4
Reed Cages to Manifold 4 316 Hex M5 0.8 15 15 8mm 93635A164
Reeds to Reed Cages 16
Stator to Cases 2
Flywheel key 1
Flywheel to Crank Bolt 1 51 stock more on TL
Flywheel Cover to Cases 7 316 Hex M6 1 25 25 10mm 93635A214
Flywheel Cover to Cases 7 316 Allen Socket M6 1 25 25 10mm 92290A330
Starter to Cases 2 316 Hex M8 1.25 25 40 13mm 93635A336
Coupler Cover to Cases 2 316 Hex M6 1 25 25 10mm 93635A214
Pump impeller fail can happen in a couple of ways. 1st would be from wear & tear. The 2nd is from damage to the impeller & wear ring from objects and debris being sucked up into the jet pump system. 3rd reason to switch out your stock impeller is for better performance out of your PWC or boat. Replacing stock impellers to get the maximum power from your jet ski or boat especially for watercraft racers is a plus.
Do you have power loss/ performance loss? Are you having cavitation issue?
Look from the back of your ski or boat forward through exit nozzle and if you see dings are on your impeller? If So, Then that blade could be knocked out of degree and it is probably best you switch it out.
The Impeller PROS
I'm a little confused about whats right. This fall when weather started to get cold here I decided ( as I have done with my previous boats) to winterize my kawasaki jet ski. While I was searching for the best price around town I was surprised to learn that unlike boats different dealers have completely different ways of dealing with the cold. One dealer that all they've been doing throughout the years is running the motors dry until all the water is expelled. The next dealer said that I should take some part of the plumbing off and blow pressurized water through what I presume are the lines. And the last dealer said that I should run antifreeze through seawater lines to get the water out. Of course all of them Fogged the engines. What do you think is right? are all the methods okay?
In the cold you want to get out all the water as it can freeze and expand and possibly crack your cylinders and exhaust manifold. You want to run Jet Ski engine as it will get water out of exhaust system. You can blow compressed air through the water line that goes to the jet pump (blow air both ways). Or you can add antifreeze to the cooling lines filling up the waterjackets. Also add some fuel stabilizer to the fuel or plan on draining the gas before you go riding again and add fresh gas (You can take the old fuel and put it your car). You should add an ounce of oil in each cylinder, Charge the battery from time to time during winter.
I have a Yamaha GP 1200 and A Yamaha Waveriader 700. Both of these Jetskis had their Yamaha impellers freeze up in the Yamaha jet pump housing. My mechanic said this was the result of salt ( I run these PWC's in salt water) getting behind the impeller housing and causing expansion of housings into impellers. The JetSki mechanic suggested that I hose off the impeller and housing after each use. The Yamaha GP1200 has a Solaris SS impeller while the 700 is stock. Thanks for your assistance.
Hi Buck, Your mechanic is right and you should wash off salt every time you ride Jetski watercraft in ocean. It will help preserve your jet ski and its jet ski parts. The Yamaha Jet pump housing has this issue of becoming out of round due to a chemical reaction behind the Yamaha wear ring. We offer a solid steel Yamaha pump housing that will solve this problem.
Watercraft Mechanic PRO
I have 2 1998 Kawasaki ZXI 1100's machines and they are both hard starting unless i pull the spark plugs and put a little gas into cylinder. If I do this they start right up. Can I put an inline gas bulb into the gas line and force gasoline into the cylinders before I try and start them?
Yes, but we call it a primer kit. These primer kit will allow you to squirt gas into carbs with a push pull plunger that hooks up to the fuel line. Not only does the jet ski primer kit help with starting it also adds life to your Jet Ski starter.
Watercraft Maintenance Man
I have a 1995 Kawasaki JS750 ZXI Jet Ski. The previous owner removed the oil injection system with Oil Pump Block Off Plate and mixed it the gas 40:1. I was wondering if it is worth it to put the oil pump back on? Or if it would be better for the machine. If not what is the best fuel ratio to run, and is there anything I should check to make sure the owner did everything right when he took off the oil system?Also, my machine doesn't seemed like it is as quick or fast as it should be. Is there anything else I should check, Like impeller or reeds.
Russ, Reasons for removing oil pump is that Oil pumps can fail and You are able to pre-mix to a precise measurement as different oils offer different mixtures. I usually go 40:1 with standard oil and 50:1 with Synthetic oils.
I would definitely check the Kawasaki impeller for nicks in the blades and the gap between the Jet Ski impeller and pump housing. If they have any issues that could defiantly cause a speed issue. Your ski is pretty old and I would recommend putting in some new reeds. I would do a head compression check and make sure all three cylinders are within 5lbs of each other. If they are more then 10psi between them you will need to do a rebuild top end piston kit.
Ski Mechanic Tech Talk
Jet Ski & Boat Magazine - Your Ultimate Guide to Water Adventures
Welcome to Jet Ski & Boat Magazine E Zine, your go-to source for all things related to water sports and personal watercraft. Our E zine magazine is dedicated to providing you with the latest news, tips, and stories from the world of jet skiing, boating, and other exciting water activities.