DescriptionThe 1st watercraft to hang out on water with the largest swim platform in the industry and a removable seat allowing to lounge or enjoy a picnic. Plus, the possibility to add a Bluetooth Audio System and extra cargo, like a cooler. The new standard for watercraft touring.
Feature Highlights

• Direct Access Front Storage: Large front storage area that's easily accessible from a seated position.
• BRP Audio-Premium: The industry’s first manufacturer-installed, truly waterproof, Bluetooth® audio system.
• Swim Platform with Integrated LinQ™ System: Exclusive quick-attach system on the largest swim platform in the industry allows for easy installation of storage accessories.
• Watertight Phone Box: Waterproof and shockproof compartment specifically designed for phone protection.
• ST3 Hull™: An innovative hull that sets the benchmark for rough water handling, stability, and offshore performance.
• Exclusive Limited Package: Includes all the essentials: Dry bag, Safety Equipment Kit, Watercraft Cover and more.

Capacity

• Rider capacity: 3
• Weight capacity: 600 lb / 272 kg
• Fuel capacity: 15.9 US gal / 60 L
• Storage capacity - Glove Box: 0.6 US gal / 2,5 L
• Storage capacity - Front Bin: 26.5 US gal / 100 L
• Storage capacity - Total: 27.1 US gal / 102.5 L

Dimensions

• Length: 135.9" / 345.1 cm
• Width: 49.4" / 125.5 cm
• Height: 44.9" / 114 cm

Hull

• Type: ST3 Hull™
• Material: Fiberglass

Rotax® Engine

• Rotax® Engine: 1500 HO ACE™
• Model: GTX LTD 230
• Intake system: Supercharged with external intercooler
• Displacement: 1,494 cc
• Cooling: Closed-Loop Cooling system (CLCS)
• Reverse system: Electronic iBR®*
• Fuel type: 87 octane
• Throttle System: iTC™ (Intelligent Throttle Control) system
• Exhaust System: D-Sea-BeI™ system

Gauge

• Type of Gauge: 7.6" Wide Digital Display
• Main Functions: Speedometer, RPM, Clock, VTS™ Display, Water Temperature, Depth Finder, Vehicle Hour Display, Sport Mode, ECO® Mode, Slow Mode, Speed Limiter

Weight

• Dry weight: 824 lb / 374 kg

Other Features

• iControl®
• ECO® Mode
• Seat with Stepped Design
• Split Seat (2 parts)
• Ergolock™ System
• Seat Strap
• Trim Tabs
• High-Performance VTS™ (Variable Trim System)
• Boarding Ladder
• Ski Tow Eye
• RF D.E.S.S.™ Key
• Direct Access Front Storage
• Watertight Phone Box
• LinQ™ Attachment System
• BRP Audio-Premium
• Wide-Angle Mirrors
• Handlegrip with Palm Rest
• Footwell Carpets
• Large Swim Platform
• USB Charger
• Tilt Steering

Warranty

• BRP limited warranty covers the watercraft for one year.

LIMITED Package

• BRP Audio-Premium
• USB Port
• Soft Knee Pad
• Dry Bag
• Safety Equipment Kit
• Storage Bin Organizer
• Watercraft Cover
• Additional Gauge Functions
• Exclusive Coloration

I have a 1995 Kawasaki JS750 ZXI Jet Ski. The previous owner removed the oil injection system with Oil Pump Block Off Plate and mixed it the gas 40:1. I was wondering if it is worth it to put the oil pump back on? Or if it would be better for the machine. If not what is the best fuel ratio to run, and is there anything I should check to make sure the owner did everything right when he took off the oil system?Also, my machine doesn't seemed like it is as quick or fast as it should be. Is there anything else I should check, Like impeller or reeds.
Russ

Russ, Reasons for removing oil pump is that Oil pumps can fail and You are able to pre-mix to a precise measurement as different oils offer different mixtures. I usually go 40:1 with standard oil and 50:1 with Synthetic oils.
  I would definitely check the Kawasaki impeller for nicks in the blades and the gap between the Jet Ski impeller and pump housing. If they have any issues that could defiantly cause a speed issue. Your ski is pretty old and I would recommend putting in some new reeds. I would do a head compression check and make sure all three cylinders are within 5lbs of each other. If they are more then 10psi between them you will need to do a rebuild top end piston kit.
​Ski Mechanic Tech Talk

I have a 2001 Yamaha XL800, It runs great with one exception. after riding approximately 20-30 minutes or longer, If I stop 20-30 minutes or longer, it will not just crank up and go. If Im lucky , I can feather the throttle and it will clear up and go. One dealer says its a vapor lock caused by heat escaping via the carburetor. Another dealer says its because the engine cools off so fast that I need to choke it when restarting it. Chocking doesn't solve the problem. Once it gets going again, it runs fine. What do you think.
Steven

Steven, It sounds like you have a bad needle and seat in the carburetor. When you sit for 30 minutes the seat leaks and can flood your engine and makes it hard to start.  Get a carburetor rebuild kit.

I have a 1999 Sea-Doo GTI and I don't use the boat very much and it still runs well, but I am concerned about the pump carburetor failing from age and or wear. do you think the carburetor should be rebuilt at some specific interval?
Cory

Hey Cory,
  If the carburetor hasn't been rebuilt since 1999 then its time to rebuild carburetors. I like to rebuild my carbs every two years.
​Doo Tech Talk

I have 2 1999 Yamaha GP800's- One starts fine, the other will not start until you put starting fluid in the carburetor. It sounds like it is out of gas. Once started it runs fine, until it sits for 2 two or three hours, then it will not start. Put starting fluid in, starts right up. Been to the dealer twice with no help.
Kev

Kev,
  You could have a air leak in the fuel system.. Check all the fuel line fittings for leaks. Also, check your check-valves to make sure they are good. They should only blow one way. Also check your gas cap for missing o-ring & that it is not cracked. I would recommend installing a primer kit. It is better for your engine using starting fluid.
Tech Talk

I have 2 identical 1994 SEA-DOO SPX's. I ran them for a week at lake of the Ozarks in Missouri. They both ran generally great, however one of them experienced an issue twice during that time. . All of a sudden the one would cut out at full throttle. After sitting for the day it ran fine again. If I let off the throttle it would keep running. If I kept the throttle wide open it would die.
   It would always start an idle fine. It acted like it just couldn't get any gas at times. If I would "pump the finger throttle"  when this was happening, I could get it to get some gas and pick back up.  I got gas from the same marina all week. I check the fuel filter and it seemed pretty clean to me. There was a small amount of black grime or sludge in the bottom fuel filter, but not much. When it was having this problem, It would only go 3-5 seconds at full throttle before it would bog down. I am not a jet ski mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, however I am pretty handy and would love to learn to fix some of these problems as the arise.
SJ

Hi SJ,
 The symptoms you describe sounds like it is in the carburetors. because of the age of the Sea Doo , I would recommend a carburetor rebuild and flush the fuel system plus check the check valves that are coming off the fuel tank.
DOO Tech Talk

I have a 1998 Yamaha XL1200 Wave Runner. It is stock.  I am unable to start unless loosen the gas cap and allow the pressure to out of gas tank. This pressure/vacuum problem exists mostly when the gas tank is full. After loosening the gas cap it is still hard to start. Once started and run,  it will restart for the rest of the day. Would I benefit  from installing a primer kit on the three carburetors? Would I have to remove the choke plates in the carburetors if I were to install the primer kit?
Pedro

Hi Pedro,
 On the Yamaha XL 1200, the fuel problem you have can be with the check valves or a restriction. But first you should fix the choke or install a primer kit if the choke can not be adjusted to close all the way. They must close all the way to work.
PWC Tech Talk

In its early years, personal watercraft manufactures tried many different ideas for watercraft: some worked and some didn't. The Kawasaki SC was first introduced in 1991, which wasn't technically the "early years" but it was apparently still early enough for manufactures to produce some unique concepts. The SC in the name referred to Sport Cruiser, not "sea couch". 

   As evident in the photo, the SC offered seating for two passengers side by side, allowing the passenger and driver to easily swap controls. In fact, the bars actually shifted from side to side into one of three positions. the throttle for the craft is built into the handle inside the right hand grip, while the engine kill button is on the left-hand side of the bars.

    Powered by a two stroke, twin cylinder engine, which had a displacement of 635cc and a bore of 76 x 70mm. The craft ran on regular gas, with the crafts gas tank holding 6.6 gallons of fuel, with a 0.63 gallon oil-tank capacity.
   For storage, the craft featured a small compartment toward the nose of the craft. In 1991 the Kawasaki SC had a retail price of $5599.

I have a Kawasaki Ultra 150 Jet Ski. My Kawasaki impeller has suffered quite a bit of damaged from rocks getting sucked through my intake grate. I would like to change the impeller and at the same time I want to upgrade impeller, but really don't know what brand to go with and what impeller pitch. I have been looking at Solas, Nujet, Skat-Trak and Your OEM mod. I can't decide with what to go with, What type do you suggest?
Kelly

Hi Kelly, 
Those are good impellers suggestions. It depends on what you want out of an impeller such as top speed or more pull for pulling. If you contact us we can get you dialed in with the best set up. 
Tech Talk

I have a Polaris TXI with a 150hrs on it. Could you tell me how many hrs is the life of the Polaris 1200cc PWC?
Mitch

Hi Mitch,
 The Polaris motor should last approx 1000hrs with normal use, before you need an Polaris engine rebuild. This can very, by the way you ride, maintain/service & oil you use in engine are all factors.
​Tech Talk