I have a Kawasaki Ultra 150 Jet Ski. My Kawasaki impeller has suffered quite a bit of damaged from rocks getting sucked through my intake grate. I would like to change the impeller and at the same time I want to upgrade impeller, but really don't know what brand to go with and what impeller pitch. I have been looking at Solas, Nujet, Skat-Trak and Your OEM mod. I can't decide with what to go with, What type do you suggest?
Those are good impellers suggestions. It depends on what you want out of an impeller such as top speed or more pull for pulling. If you contact us we can get you dialed in with the best set up.
I have a Polaris TXI with a 150hrs on it. Could you tell me how many hrs is the life of the Polaris 1200cc PWC?
The Polaris motor should last approx 1000hrs with normal use, before you need an Polaris engine rebuild. This can very, by the way you ride, maintain/service & oil you use in engine are all factors.
I have a 1995 Sea Doo SP, and wanted to know what brand impeller do you think is best? Or what performance seadoo impeller do you think is the best or fastest on the market right now for my wave?
We get this question a lot. The Seadoo Performance impellers now days perform good, some have better take off and/or speed. So it comes down to what aftermarket parts do you have (intake grates and ride plates) and what type of riding do you do and where (what elevation) for max speed performance.
I have a stock 1995 Kawasaki JS750 SX Jet Ski. It performs flawlessly and currently there is nothing wrong with this boat.
I am toying with replacing the OEM impeller with an aftermarket Kawasaki performance impeller. I have purchased a service manual. Should I notice a performance improvement with an aftermarket Kawasaki Impeller? Given that I am more mechanically inclined then average, is this a impeller removal job I should be undertaking myself, or should I seek professional mechanic assistance? I heard that it could be quite difficult removing the oem impeller from the jet pump impeller shaft. If I do this impeller job myself, should I expect the need to replace any pump bearings, pump seals, ect?
Changing your original impeller to an aftermarket Kawasaki performance prop will help, but you also should check the jet pump housing and make sure it is in good shape and not worn out.
As for changing the jet ski impeller yourself, If you have more then average mechanical ability and think you can handle it, Then just do it ( but make sure you have impeller removal tool).. If you ride in fresh water it should be no problem to get impeller off shaft. If you ride in salt water sometime the salt water impellers are a little more difficult and You might have to add some heat to impeller. I would recommend changing your pump seals & bearings with a Jet pump rebuild kit since ski has been in use for many years. Follow your repair manual and You should be fine.
Ski Maintenance Pro
I own a stock 89 Kawasaki 650 SX Jet Ski, except for a stainless SOLAS impeller. I usually ride on the rivers and lakes in Virginia. Every now and then, I get to do a little ocean riding at Virginia Beach. Im looking to squeeze a few more hoursepower out of my Jet Ski. Im hoping you can help. I noticed you frequently recommend air filters for better flow. I took a look around and there are many sizes, shapes and designs to choose from. Also will advancing the timing help my performance? And Should I mill my head?
The best performance you can do is add a performance exhaust system. It will improve performance all through out the power band.
For timing your ski is fitted with an adjustable stator plate assembly. The timing can be changed (advanced) simply by rotating the stator plate assembly counter clockwise. Be careful not to advance your ignition timing to much from factory setting . Only 3-4 more degrees are needed to help improve low-speed response.
You can safely cut your OEM head to get more compression. I recommend Removing .070 (seventy thousands) from the surface, then open up/machine the squish band area to your exact bore size. be sure to keep stock chamber angle too. This will give you approximately 170-175 cranking compression. You will still be able to run pump gas 92.
After market flame arrestor filters are all pretty equal. The main point it to improve flow.
I think I need more low end torq. Im a smaller rider, weighing in at only a 150lbs. I ride a 1994 Yamaha SuperJet 650. I love performing various tricks & freestyle on it and I'm getting to the point where more low-end kick will really help me out. With all this impeller pitching and Yamaha impeller choices, its hard to figure out what would be best for me. Which can you recommend for my type of jet ski riding? Thanks in advance.
You only need a 175-180 psi head. You can have your head machine or buy an aftermarket head. Flame arrestors will help letting engine breath better and remove the choke plates and install a primer kit for better flow.
Impellers, if your looking to just replace the OEM set up for now, Go with a Solas I or PRO. They give excellent better low end acceleration and even a little more at top.
I have a 2002 Sea-Doo GTX DI, It ran perfectly, and then I winterized it, and, after taking it out of storage, it lost approximately 5 mph. The engine only gets to 4000 rpm until its been run across the lake, then it loosens up and reaches 5500rpm. weird. Do you have any ideas? Do the exhaust ports need to be cleaned every so often?
Sea-Doo recommends annual cleaning of the RAVE valve guillotine to remove carbon build up. But a bad water regulator valve, low fuel pressure or a jet-pump problem can also cause this problem.
My 1999 Sea Doo GTX RFI has approximately 100 hours on its powerplant. The problem is that on initial acceleration, either while I'm alone or when pulling a wakeboarder, the machine does not have smooth, crisp transition through the powerband. on take off, it appears to be labored acceleration. However, when the machine begins to plane, everybody is happy. Is there an easy fix for this?
The GTX RFI has a Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust (RAVE) system. If the RAVE valve gets stuck open, you can experience a rough take off Sea Doo recommends annual cleaning to remove carbon, However, other things, like clogged injectors and the need for TPS adjustment, can also cause the problem you described.
I have a question about CDK II carbs, I have found little performance info on these aftermarket carbs. I want to upgrade the carbs on my Ultra 150, but i dont want to spend a ton of money and have to change the fuel system on my ski. The changes have to be done with the 48-50 style carbs. I have a few mods done to the jetski , and I feel it is time to upgrade the ski. I have a Billet head 165psi, Inland Jet exhaust mod, flame arrestor, Solas DynaFly 16-20 impeller, Shredmaster ride plate, Solas Intake grate and Aggresser Sponsons.
The Mikuni 48mm Blackjack carbs with Inland Jet Manifold works great on the Ultra 150. I would also recommend V-Force Reed valves for extra rpm. Plus, a set of 1.5 inch air filters. Its not cheap but You will rule your local lakes....
Jet Tech Pro
I'm wondering if you can help me with winterizing my ski. I have heard to put fuel stabilizer in a full tank, partly full ect. Also make sure no water in system and put a bit of motor oil in each spark plug hole. Kind of a variety of efforts, and I'm wondering if you could help me in the correct way to winterize my jet ski?
Hi Henry, When winterizing a ski, I put fuel stabilizer in a full tank of fuel and run the motor to make sure that the fuel stabilizer gets into the fuel system completely. Then while ski is running, pour antifreeze into cooling system until it comes out at the exhaust, then squirt fogging oil into the carburetor until the motor stalls. This whole operation should take about 30 minutes with no water hooked up. Then you remove the spark plugs and poor about an ounce of motor oil in each cylinder and turn the motor over to make sure that the oil coats fully. Then you should check the pump for water under the cap and re-seal the pump if it has been exposed to water. Then you should lubricate all fittings and moving parts (steer, trim ect..)
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